Malawi is basically just like Eastern Province in Zambia, but with more mountains (which is great) and much better roads. Although Zambia has a higher GDP because of the copper industry, the disparity between rural poor (in Mikey's village) and urban areas seemed less stark than in Zambia, probably due to the fact that Malawi has population of 11 million - roughly the same population as Zambia - in about 1/6 the geographic area. Interesting to think about how differently things must work in a country where, to reach the poorest population, you don't have to drive down a potholed tarmac road, then a dirt road, and then maybe canoe to the village site if it's the rainy season. Malawi infrastructure = way better than Zambia's.
Because of tourism to Lake Malawi, Malawians also seemed much more used to white folks than in comparison to rural Zambians, where whiteys (such as myself - in the category of 'white' as American) are still a remarkable novelty. Maybe because of this, Malawians didn't quite seem the chill, friendly bunch that Zambians are. Or maybe I'm just biased towards home base in Lusaka. (even though Lilongwe has a cafe with bagels, which is pretty sweet.)
Also, didn't get a photo of this, but did see the hatching of these little gnat-type insects over Lake Malawi. And apparently Lake Malawi is where Planet Earth filmed the phenomenon, which looks like a cloud of smoke (but read: actually MILLIONS OF INSECTS) rising up from the water. Which then, incidentally, die immediately all over your bed, if you leave your lakeside bedroom door open.
Elliott and I road-tripped it out in my trusty Rav4 (which Elliott later admitted to initially thinking was all form and no function. He was pleasantly proved wrong. Ha!) Went via Chipata (6 hours), the border town in Zambia where we changed our millions of Zambian kwacha for thousands of Malawian kwacha, then on to the capital of Malawi, Lilongwe (1.5 more hours). Had terrible, faux-Korean food there (never eat at Korea Garden restaurant in Lilongwe.) and then next morning schlepped it north to Nkhata Bay (3 hours) for a week of scuba certification - very cool, but not at all restful. After finishing scuba certification early and meeting up with Mikey - a friend from high school doing Peace Corps in Malawi - we made it to Mikey's village and hung out with him there. First vacation foray out of Zambia, but hopefully not the last.
View from the car in Malawi.
Because of tourism to Lake Malawi, Malawians also seemed much more used to white folks than in comparison to rural Zambians, where whiteys (such as myself - in the category of 'white' as American) are still a remarkable novelty. Maybe because of this, Malawians didn't quite seem the chill, friendly bunch that Zambians are. Or maybe I'm just biased towards home base in Lusaka. (even though Lilongwe has a cafe with bagels, which is pretty sweet.)
Also, didn't get a photo of this, but did see the hatching of these little gnat-type insects over Lake Malawi. And apparently Lake Malawi is where Planet Earth filmed the phenomenon, which looks like a cloud of smoke (but read: actually MILLIONS OF INSECTS) rising up from the water. Which then, incidentally, die immediately all over your bed, if you leave your lakeside bedroom door open.
Elliott and I road-tripped it out in my trusty Rav4 (which Elliott later admitted to initially thinking was all form and no function. He was pleasantly proved wrong. Ha!) Went via Chipata (6 hours), the border town in Zambia where we changed our millions of Zambian kwacha for thousands of Malawian kwacha, then on to the capital of Malawi, Lilongwe (1.5 more hours). Had terrible, faux-Korean food there (never eat at Korea Garden restaurant in Lilongwe.) and then next morning schlepped it north to Nkhata Bay (3 hours) for a week of scuba certification - very cool, but not at all restful. After finishing scuba certification early and meeting up with Mikey - a friend from high school doing Peace Corps in Malawi - we made it to Mikey's village and hung out with him there. First vacation foray out of Zambia, but hopefully not the last.
View from the car in Malawi.
Nkhata Bay, view from the room. Lake Malawi is like the OCEAN. That is, big. And thus, great for scuba diving training. Am now certified to dive to 18m. Those red flowers in the photo are called "flamboyance." Kinda cool and extremely appropriate, right?
Water super clear, turquoise, and the perfect temp. Elliott unsuccessfully trying to sit on a rock. Lake Malawi surprisingly wavy.
Then visited Mikey in his village. His yard, and kitchen-insaka. We planted some trees in his yard, played some guitar, and fooled around with his dog while eating mangoes. Pretty sweet.
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